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Luang Prabang papaya salad
Tam mak hoong, pounded the northern way.
Local gastronomy
About
Local versions of tam mak hoong incorporate crab juice, giving the salad its distinctive Luang Prabang flavor.
Green papaya is shredded and bruised in a tall mortar with lime, chilli, garlic and padaek, the Lao fermented fish sauce. It is saltier and more pungent than the Thai som tam most visitors know, and the crab darkens the dressing further.
Every market has someone pounding it to order; say how many chillies you want before they start.
Where to find it
Where to eat it, kitchens and stalls around Luang Prabang known for this dish. Tap a pin or card to locate it, then open Google Maps for directions and current hours.